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Feeling self-conscious about your crow’s-feet or dark spots? Worry not.

While basic facials have long been de rigueur for maintaining a clear complexion, spas are taking an even more targeted approach with anti-aging facials, incorporating potent ingredients that help erase fine lines, plump sagging skin, and restore a youthful glow, among other results. 

A perennial favorite at spas and dermatology practices alike, vitamins are often incorporated into anti-aging products and treatments because of their complexion-enhancing abilities. For instance, Retin-A and its gentler cousin retinol (both forms of VITAMIN A) are typically added to acid peels to enhance their sloughing effect, although they are notorious for leaving users susceptible to sunburn. Meanwhile, VITAMIN C — often applied as a facial serum — is loaded with antioxidants effective in fighting environmental damage. “For any anti-aging regimen, our presiding physicians recommend three things: Retin-A or retinol, vitamin C, and a sunscreen,” says Dana Knight, general manager of Sona Med Spas in Newport News and Virginia Beach, Virginia.

Acids are another category of tried-and-true age-fighters to look for. HYALURONIC ACID kicks up moisture retention in cells, causing visible plumping and luminosity, while glycolic acid reduces the appearance of fine lines and age spots. For a natural approach, opt for acid-rich FRUIT ENZYMES like apple, grape, and pineapple, to name a few. These are often used in serums, masques, and peels to promote cell turnover and renewal, brightening and firming crepey, sagging, or discolored skin. 

Additional natural healing can be found in the ocean. Antioxidant-rich SEAWEED, ALGAE and KELP are typically freeze-dried, powdered, blended with oil or water, then applied as a mask to hydrate and detoxify skin. According to Wendy York, an esthetician at Spa Montage Beverly Hills, algae is exceptionally effective in delivering essential fatty acids for collagen production and cell renewal. When used topically, these nutrients are also absorbed directly into the bloodstream through the dermis, aiding the regeneration of skin cells from the inside out. “Our bodies are familiar with calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus, and the percentages of these vitamins and minerals are already in perfect balance in algae,” she says. “It’s like taking vitamins.”

Protein-rich CAVIAR takes the marine element even further, boosting skin elasticity and firmness by nourishing cells with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, proteins, and lipids. It is most often administered in extract form and combined with other age-defying elements for maximum effect. 

Precious metals and jewels are increasingly finding their place on spa menus both for their wow factor and for their beauty benefits. Twenty-four-karat GOLD is especially popular and is usually massaged into the skin in a colloidal suspension or applied to the face as a gold leaf mask. The ions in gold are purported to conduct a restorative charge, fueling collagen and elastin production as well as blood circulation and cell renewal. Powdered PEARLS have essential minerals that are believed to promote cell renewal and elasticity, while DIAMONDS can be finely ground and used as an exfoliator. 

Among the more attention-grabbing ingredients now being tapped into is the guanine enzyme in nightingale excrement, which Japanese geishas are said to have employed as a makeup remover and skin lightener. NIGHTINGALE GUANO is being sanitized via ultraviolet light, milled into powder, and used as an exfoliating, brightening mask in spa facials. Equally controversial, bovine and vegetal STEM CELLS are being employed on a nano level in serums to amplify collagen and elastin production. And bovine colostrum is prized because of its highly concentrated growth and immune factors. The first “plug” of milk, produced only for the first 12 to 24 hours after giving birth, colostrum is believed to flood cells with bioavailable vitamins to nourish and rejuvenate skin. 

Of course, an anti-aging facial, no matter how extraordinary, isn’t likely to be a permanent fix. But it just may give you the beauty boost you need to stop obsessing about your flaws and feel confident in front of a mirror, regardless of age.

Next: Try these ingredients at the spa or at home